Trip Details

  • Destination: Nepal

About Makalu Expedition

The Makalu expedition is an ambitious mountaineering endeavor to summit Mount Makalu, the fifth-highest peak in the world, standing at 8485 meters (27838 feet) above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur range of the Nepal Himalayas; Makalu presents formidable challenges due to its steep slopes, unpredictable weather, and technical climbing conditions. The mountain’s remote location, combined with its harsh environment, makes it a difficult and dangerous objective for climbers. The first successful ascent of Makalu was made by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy in 1955 and since then the mountain has become a sought-after goal for seasoned mountaineers.

Expedition to Makalu requires a high level of preparation and skill, as climbers must navigate through icy ridges, glaciers, and difficult rock faces. The weather is often a significant obstacle, with frequent storms that can disrupt attempts and make conditions hazardous. The route to the summit typically involves climbing through a series of high-altitude camps, with each stage requiring careful acclimatization to prevent altitude sickness. For many climbers, reaching the summit of Makalu is not only a test of physical endurance but also of mental strength, as they face extreme fatigue, frigid temperatures, and the constant risk of avalanches and falls.

The Makalu expedition is often undertaken by teams of experienced climbers, and although the summit is rarely reached, those who do are rewarded with an incredible view of the surrounding peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, and Kanchenjunga. The mountain’s remoteness and difficulty have kept it less traversed than some of its more famous neighbors, offering a sense of solitude and raw adventure for those brave enough to attempts it. As with all high-altitude climbs, the success of the expedition depends not only on skill and preparation but also on timing and luck with the weather, which highlights the unpredictability that makes Makalu both a challenging and a compelling objective for mountaineers worldwide.

Makalu Expedition History

Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain in the world at 8485 meters (27838 feet), located in the Himalayas on the border between Nepal and Tibet. The first successful ascent of Makalu was made in 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy, members of a French expedition. Despite its height, the mountain remained relatively less explored for years due to its challenging terrain and harsh weather conditions. Early attempts were met with failure and tragedy, including the 1954 American expedition that turned back due to difficult conditions. The mountain’s remote location and technical difficulty made it one of the most challenging climbs in the Himalayas. Over the decades, several notable expeditions, including those by Japanese and American climbers, have attempted Makalu’s summit, but it remains a significant challenges due to its steep slopes, frequent avalanches, and unpredictable weather. The history of Makalu’s ascents is marked by both triumph and tragedy, contributing to its reputation as one of the most difficult peaks to conquer.

Highlights

  • opportunity to summit Mount Makalu, the fifth-highest peak in the world
  • climbers must navigate through icy ridges, glaciers, and difficult rock faces
  • rewarded with an incredible view of the surrounding peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, and Kanchenjunga
  • offering a sense of solitude and raw adventure for those brave enough to attempts it

Outline Itinerary

  • Day 1Arrive in Kathmandu
  • Day 2Sightseeing and Preparation
  • Day 3Fly to Tumlingtar and short trek to Manebhanjyang
  • Day 4Manebhanjyang to Kuwapani
  • Day 5Kuwapani to Num
  • Day 6Num to Seduwa
  • Day 7Sheduwa to Tashigaon
  • Day 8Tashigaon to Kongma
  • Day 9Kongma to Sano Pokhari
  • Day 10Sano Pokhari to Mumbuk
  • Day 11Mumbuk to Yangle Kharka
  • Day 12Yangle Kharka to Hillary Base Camp
  • Day 13Hillary Base Camp to Makalu Base Camp
  • Day 14-46Summit Makalu
  • Day 47Clean up the Base Camp
  • Day 48Makalu Base Camp to Mumbuk
  • Day 49Mumbuk to Tashigaon
  • Day 50Tashigaon to Num
  • Day 51Num to Chichira
  • Day 52Chichira to Tumlingtar
  • Day 53Fly back to Kathmandu
  • Day 54Extra day at Kathmandu
  • Day 55Departure day
Day to day details itinerary

What's Included

  • airport pickup and drop by private vehicle
  • domestic flight (Kathmandu-Tumlingtar-Kathmandu)
  • three times meal (Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner) during trekking period
  • fluently English speaking guide and Sherpa
  • all necessary permit and mountaineering permit
  • all essential equipment like tent, toilet tent, and many more
  • personal climbing gears
  • all personal expanses like bar and beverage bills
  • tips for staff

Useful Information

Makalu Expedition Difficult Level

Makalu is considered one of the most difficult mountains to climb due to the technical terrain and unpredictable weather conditions. The ascent requires advanced mountaineering skills, including the ability to navigate through difficult ice and rock sections, while dealing with high-altitude challenges such as altitude sickness and freezing. Its remote location, far from the typical trekking route, adds logistic complexity to expeditions. The mountain is also known for frequent avalanches, making it a dangerous climb even for experienced mountaineers. Additionally, the lack of established routes and the challenging weather conditions in the region often result in poor visibility, high winds, and sudden storms. These factors combine to make Makalu a formidable peak, demanding both physical and mental resilience for those who attempt it.

Makalu Expedition Routes

The Makalu expedition typically involves a challenging ascent of the fifth-highest mountain in the world, Mount Makalu (8485 meters / 27838 feet), located in the Himalayas on the border between Nepal and Tibet. The two primary routes for summiting Makalu are the standard southeast ridge, the most commonly used, begins from the Makalu Base Camp in Nepal, which climbers first trekking through remote valleys and forests to reach the base camp. From there, the ascent follows a series of challenging rock and ice sections, requiring technical climbing skills, before reaching the summit. This route typically involves setting up several camps at higher altitude for acclimatization. The northwest ridge, which starts from Tibet, is considered more difficult as sees fewer ascends due to the technical nature of the climb, higher avalanche risk, and the remoteness of approach. Both routes require experienced mountaineers with a high level of preparation due to Makalu’s extreme altitude, unpredictable weather, and tough terrain.

Why the Makalu expedition?

The Makalu expedition attracts climbers due to the mountain’s challenging nature and its status as one of the highest and most difficult peaks to summit in the world. Mount Makalu, standing at 8485 meters, presents a formidable challenge because of its steep slopes, technical climbs, and harsh weather conditions, making it a coveted objective for experienced mountaineers. Unlike more popular peak like Everest, Makalu offers a sense of adventure and solitude, as it sees fewer expeditions and climbers. The remote location, high altitude, and rugged terrain provide an opportunity for those seeking a more difficult and less commercialized ascent. Additionally, summiting Makalu represents a major achievement in the mountaineering world, testing both physical endurance and mental resilience. The expeditions also appeal to climbers seeking to push their limits and explore one of the most beautiful yet isolated regions of the Himalayas.