Useful Information
Difficulty that may face during Mount Lhotse summit
Summiting Mount Lhotse, while a major achievement, presents several significant challenges and dangers that climbers must be prepared for. Here are the main difficulties that may be faced during the Lhotse summit:
1: Extreme Altitude and Altitude Sickness
During the Lhotse expedition, as you ascend, the air becomes thinner, making it harder to breathe. This can lead to symptoms such as headaches, dizziness, nausea, and fatigue. At the higher altitudes (above 7500 meters), severe altitude sickness such as High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) can occur, which can be life-threatening. It is better to take a proper acclimatization, which is critical. Climbers need to ascend gradually, spend days at intermediate camps, and descend if necessary to avoid severe altitude-related illnesses.
2: Technical Climbing Challenging
The climb involves sections of steep rock and ice. The Lhotse face, particularly, is a vertical 40-50 degree incline and is covered with snow and ice, requiring advanced ice climbing skills. Climbers must use fixed ropes, ladders, and crampons to navigate the face. The glacier at the higher altitude is riddled with crevasses and looming ice (large ice towers). The risk of falling into crevasses or being hit by falling ice from above is a constant hazard.
3: Weather Conditions
The weather on Lhotse is unpredictable. High winds, freezing, snowstorms, and poor visibility can make the climb more dangerous. Winter-like conditions, even in the spring climbing season, can occur, which may slow down progress or force climbers to wait for better conditions. In some areas, the wind can be extremely powerful and cold, leading to frostbite and hypothermia if proper gear is not used.
4: Physical and Mental Fatigue
The physical demands of climbing at such high altitudes can lead to severe fatigue. The body uses a lot of energy just to breathe and move, so climbers need to maintain a high level of fitness and stamina. Dehydration and lack of sleep also worsen fatigue. The constant strain of long days of climbing, combined with high-risk conditions and low oxygen levels, demands mental resilience. The pressure and stress of the final summit push cause climbers to second-guess their decision, leading to poor judgment.
5: Long Summit Push and Time Pressure
The final push for the summit can take up to 12 to 16 hours, depending on weather and conditions. Climbers often start before dawn and aim to reach the summit by midday. If the weather deteriorates, or if a climber’s body cannot keep up, the risk of not returning to the higher camps before dark increase, leading to dangerous situation. At the higher camps (especially above 8000 meters), supplemental oxygen is often used. If climbers run out or experience technical issues with their oxygen masks, this can cause severe hypoxia (lack of oxygen), leading to confusion, unconsciousness, or death.
6: Route and Navigation Challenges
While Lhotse has established routes, the climb is still challenging due to snow, ice, and shifting rock faces. The route may change or become harder to follow, especially after a storm or avalanche, requiring sharp navigational skills. The Lhotse face and surrounding area are prone to avalanches. A triggered avalanche could bury climbers, and timing becomes crucial in avoiding this danger.
7: Lack of Support and Rescue Operations
Above certain altitude (typically above 7000 meters), rescue options become extremely limited. Helicopter rescues are not always possible due to weather and altitude limitations. If a climber is injured or becomes ill, evacuation can be extremely difficult. Many climbers experience isolation both physically and mentally due to the extreme conditions. This is exacerbated if the team is separate or communication fails.
8: Crowding at Critical Points
During this peak season (usually in May), there can be a high number of climbers attempting to summit Lhotse and Everest at the same time. This leads to overcrowding at key camps, the Lhotse Face, and other technical sections. Waiting in these sections for extended periods of time can increase risk from exhaustion, frostbite, and altitude sickness.
Summiting Lhotse is a challenging and dangerous endeavor that demands high levels of physical fitness, mountaineering experience, and mental fortitude. Climbers must be prepared to face the difficulties of extreme altitude, technical climbing, harsh weather and limited support options. The ability to assess risks, make decisions, and know when to turn back is critical for a safe and successful summit.