About Manaslu Expedititon
The Manaslu expedition is a challenging yet rewarding adventure that takes climbers to the summit of the world’s eight-highest mountain, standing at 8163 meters (26781 feet) in the Nepalese Himalayas. It is also known as the “Mountain of Spirit,” Manaslu is less commercialized than Everest, offering a more remote and culturally rich experience. The expedition requires climbers to be highly experienced in mountaineering, as the mountain is notorious for its technical difficulty, especially in the upper reaches. The climb involves a combination of ice, rock, and snow sections, and altitude sickness is a major concern for those attempting to reach the summit.
Manaslu was first summited in 1956 by a Japanese team, and since then, the mountain has gained popularity among mountaineers. However, it remains a dangerous and remote peak, with a high fatality rate compared to other 8000 meters peaks. The standard routes to the summit start from the base camp, which is usually reached after a multi-day trek through the dense forests and Tibetan-influenced villages of the Manaslu region. Climbers then established a series of camps at high altitude, gradually acclimatizing before making the final push to the summit. The peak expedition also takes you to beautiful high-altitude settlements, Manaslu conservation area, diverse terrain, and waterfalls.
Over the year, the Manaslu expedition has become a major objective for mountaineers seeking to complete the “eight-thousand” challenge, but the mountain’s remoteness and treacherous conditions make it far less crowded then other peaks like Everest. Despite those challenges, successful summits are celebrated for their technical achievements and courage, with climbers needing to be prepared for unpredictable weather, avalanches, and the physical toll of high-altitude climbing. The region around Manaslu is also an area of great natural beauty, with pristine landscapes and a rich cultural heritage that makes the expedition a deeply rewarding experience beyond the summit.
The History of Manaslu Expedition
Manaslu is the eight-highest mountain in the world. The first serious attempt to climb Manaslu began in the early 1950s when Japanese climbers took a keen interest in the peak, which lies in Nepal’s Mansiri Himal range. This made japan the first nation to climb Manaslu, and it earned the mountain the nicknames “Japanese Mountain” due to their persistent efforts. Since then, Manaslu has become a popular objective for mountaineers seeking to conquer all 8000 meters peaks, although it remains challenging due to its avalanche-prone slopes and unpredictable weather. Over the decades, climbers from around the world have made ascents via various routes, with some attempting ski descents or winter summits. Despite modern advances, the mountain has seen its share of tragedy, including deadly avalanches and crevasses falls, highlighting the risks associated with high-altitude mountaineering. Nevertheless, Manaslu continues to attract climbers for its relative accessibility compared to other Himalayan giants and its reputation as a slightly less-crowded alternative to Everest.
Highlights
- opportunity to summit the world’s eight-highest mountain “Manaslu”, standing at 8163 meters (26781 feet)
- offering a more remote and culturally rich experience
- remoteness and treacherous conditions make it far less crowded then other peaks like Everest
- natural beauty, with pristine landscapes and a rich cultural heritage that makes the expedition a deeply rewarding experience beyond the summit
Useful Information
Best time to summit Mount Manaslu
The best time to summit Mount Manaslu is during the pre-monsoon (spring) season, typically from late March to early May. During this period, the weather is more stable, and the temperatures are relatively milder, offering the best conditions for climbing. The post-monsoon (autumn) season, from late September to early November, is also a good time to attempt the summit, as the weather is clear, and the mountain is less crowded. However, both seasons require careful planning due to the risk of avalanches, severe weather, and altitude sickness, making it essential to have a well-prepared team and experienced guide.
Difficulties that may face during Manaslu summit
Climbers face numerous difficulties during the expedition, including:
1: Altitude and Acclimatization: Manaslu’s high altitude creates the risk of altitude sickness (AMS). Climbers must properly acclimatize to avoid potentially life-threatening conditions such as high-altitude pulmonary edema or high-altitude cerebral edema. The lack of sufficient oxygen at higher altitude can lead to exhaustion, confusion, and impaired judgment.
2: Technical Difficulty: While Manaslu is considered less technical than some other 8000 meters peaks; it still presents serious challenges, including steep sections, crevasses, and icefall passages. Climbers need advanced mountaineering skills, particularly in ice and mixed climbing, to navigate those sections.
3: Weather Conditions: The weather on Manaslu can be highly unpredictable. Severe storms, heavy snow, and high winds can cause dangerous conditions, delaying the summit push or making it impossible. These conditions can increase the risk of avalanches, frostbite, and hypothermia.
4: Avalanches and Icefalls Hazards: The risk of avalanches and icefall collapses is particularly high on the slopes of Manaslu. Crevasses and unstable snow bridges can make it difficult to navigate safely.
5: Logistic and Access: Reaching the base camp of Manaslu requires a long trek, which can take several days, and access to the mountain can be complicated by landslides or poor trail conditions, getting the necessary permits and dealing with local regulations can also be a hurdle.
6: Physical and Mental Fatigue: The physical demands of climbing a high-altitude peak like Manaslu are immense. Mental resilience is required to push through difficult days.
7: Limited Rescue Options: Because of the mountain’s remoteness, in the event of an emergency, rescue operations can be extremely difficult and time-consuming. Helicopter evacuations are sometimes not possible due to weather conditions, and rescue teams may take several days to reach the climber.
Despite these challenges, many climbers successfully summit Manaslu each year, but it’s crucial to be well-prepared both physically and mentally, and to have a solid support team.
Manaslu Expedition Route
The standard route for the Manaslu expedition begins with a trek to the base camp, located at around 4800 meters (15748 feet). The approach to the base camp starts from the town of Sothi Khola, accessible from Arughta. From there, climbers traverse through villages, forests, and river valleys, gaining altitude gradually. The route passes through lush green landscapes and various Gurung villages before reaching the higher, more alpine terrain closer to the mountain. The base camp itself is typically set up at a site on the northern side of the mountain. From base camp, the climb follows the glacier and involves navigating through a series of camps set at higher altitudes, each requiring acclimatization and strategic planning.
The first few camps are located at an altitude of around 5300 meters (17388 feet) to 6400 meters (21000 feet). Climbers ascend through the Larkya La Glacier, passing dangerous sections like icefalls and carcasses, and then continue up the ridge towards the summit. The summit push, which typically involves high-altitude tents and additional oxygen, culminates at the top of Manaslu at 8163 meters (26781 feet), with breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks. The descent follows the same route, requiring caution as climbers return to base camp and eventually back to the valley. The entire journey can take several weeks, depending on weather and adjustment schedules.